Name: PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-45
Brand: Faux Brushes
SKU: GLZ-45_Size-00000
Price: 11.5 USD
Availability: InStock

PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-45

PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-45

GLZ-45_Size-00000

$11.50

NEW! Our pointed water glazer has excellent line-cutting capabilities. Also known as a sash brush, this is a modern replica of the classic bristle/nylon version (GLZ-2). Available in 7 sizes.

SOFT, Blue Polytop synthetic fiber
Pointed shape allows for precise application
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
Larger sizes best for glazing panels for faux marble/wood
Small sizes for murals, and glazing tiny areas like mullions, dentils & window casing
Also used to sketch wood heartgrain, & primary veins
Wash with Soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	HAIR LENGTH
00000		.45" / 11mm	1.9" / 48mm
000		.6" / 15mm	2.1" / 53mm
0		.7" / 18mm	2.3" / 58mm
2		.83" / 21mm	2.6" / 66mm
4		.98" / 25mm	2.9" / 73mm
6		1.2" / 29mm	3" / 77mm
8		1.4" / 34mm	3.2" / 81mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle / Nylon blend
BRUSH HOLD	Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
USAGE	Applying glaze and base coat
MEDIUM	Water
FERRULE	Tin
HANDLE	Wooden round long

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-03

Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-03

GLZ-03_Size-04

$24.00

This original design is ingenious in it's rounded shape and thick hair. The hand tied red, cotton string is handsomely traditional in this model. Our natural bristle glazing brushes should be a standard item in your decorative painting kit.

High quality bristle keeps it's shape
Slightly domed shape for fast coverage
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Can be used in oil/water when dedicated (learn more)
Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
Works well painting basecoats
Glaze panels with speed
With size 8, glaze entire wall - applies better than a roller!
Description: Bristle hair for OIL/WATER mediums
Application/Usage: applying glaze and basecoat; adding texture; rough stipple
Preferred Medium: Oil/Water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: Copper, wooden round long
Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle
Brush Hold: Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
Hair Length: 3-3.5" (76-90mm)
Dia./width: 1-1.25" (25-32mm)

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

4-in-1 Flat Spalter Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-09

4-in-1 Flat Spalter Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-09

GLZ-09

$36.50

Our long haired spalter is a combination of a spalter, softener, and a mini-flogger. This natural bristle brush becomes economical because of it's versatility. Our spalters are over 1/3" thick. From strie to corner stippling, smoothing to moire, this brush does it all. Keep it in your back pocket and it will get used often.

Hand-selected bristle hair, longer than a Spalter
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Softens unwanted brush/roller marks
4 uses: softening, strie, stipple, & moire
A versatile brush for the price
Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	FERRULE LENGTH	HAIR LENGTH
100		.16" / 4mm	4" / 100mm	2.2" / 55mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle
BRUSH HOLD	Drummer's Hold, Conductor's Hold
USAGE	Corner stippling; strie
MEDIUM	Water or Oil
FERRULE	Copper
HANDLE	Wooden flat short

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Original Stubby Tooth Spalter (Nylon, Bristle) | GLZ-08D

Original Stubby Tooth Spalter (Nylon, Bristle)

Original Stubby Tooth Spalter (Nylon, Bristle) | GLZ-08D

GLZ-8D_Size-060

$15.00

Our tooth spalter has been cut to create 'teeth'. In decorative painting, this bristle/blend brush is essential for a deep strie, brushed texture, & straight graining techniques in water mediums. Our spalters are over 1/3 " thick. This is a must for your decorative painting kit. Available in 6 sizes.

Nylon synthetic fiber with 50% natural bristle
Machine cut teeth
The best brush for patina and aging techniques (dry-brushing)
Pulling wet basecoat when a heavily brushed texture is desired
Criss-cross techniques
Application/Usage: strie; straight graining in wood
Preferred Medium: Oil/Water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: copper, wooden flat short
Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle/Nylon blend
Brush Hold: Drummer's Hold
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
Hair Length: 1.5-1.7" (38-45mm), 2" (51mm)
Dia./width: 1.6" (40mm), 2.2" (60mm), 3.1" (80mm), 4", 6" (150mm), 8" (200mm)

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-41

PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-41

GLZ-41_Size-000

$12.50

Our pointed water glazer will surely assist in your glazing with its excellent line cutting capabilities. The PRO SERIES is our extra fine / highest level of quality series. Also known as a sash brush, this is a modern replica of the classic bristle version (GLZ -4).

Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
Sealed handle for longevity
Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
Pointed shape allows for precise application
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
Larger sizes best for glazing panels for faux marble/wood
Small sizes for murals, and glazing tiny areas like mullions, dentils & window casing
Also used to sketch wood heartgrain, & primary veins
Wash with soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	HAIR LENGTH
000		.4" / 11mm	2.2" / 56mm
0		.8 / 20mm	2.4" / 62mm
2		.9" / 22mm	2.8" / 70mm
4		1" / 26mm	3" / 75mm
6		1.2" / 31mm	3.3" / 84mm
8		1.3" / 34mm	3.5" / 89mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle / Nylon blend
BRUSH HOLD	Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
USAGE	Applying glaze and base coat
MEDIUM	Water or Oil
FERRULE	Tin
HANDLE	Wooden round long

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Oval Varnish Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-25

GLZ-25_Size-040

$24.00

Great for FURNITURE! This Italian-inspired oval brush has a thick hair density that allows for greater medium retention. Our new BLUE hair will help apply water varnishes and water basecoats softly and efficiently. We've introduced this brush a year ago and the feedback has been superb! Our BLUE brushes seem to be a brush breakthrough! Use with the BLUE Spalter for the best, glass-like varnish finish.

Available in size 40, 50, & 60
For best results, keep the brush saturated with varnish
2/3 inch thick, nylon synthetic
Oval shape great mix between flat and round brushes
Description: Soft, blue nylon for WATER medium
Application/Usage: varnishing
Preferred Medium: water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: copper, wooden flat medium
Brush Hair Type: Polytop Synthetic
Brush Hold: Drummer's Hold, Pencil Hold
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap
Found in Kits:
See Also:
Hair Length: 1.8" (45mm)
Dia./width: 1.5, 2.5 inches
Brush Length:
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
For water applications only
Small sizes great for painting stiles/rails, small panels, mullions, etc.
Description:
Application/Usage:
Preferred Medium:
Brush Description:
Brush Type:
Brush Hold:
Brush Care:
Found in Kits:
See Also:

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Codtail Blending Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-12

Codtail Blending Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-12

GLZ-12_Size-50

$23.00

Our long handle small codtail is the ultimate smoothing tool. It can be gentle as a smoother or used aggressively to efficiently blend/break up multi-tonal glazes. We also love it as a fine stippler on all hard to reach areas.

Long hair for a finer blending
1/3 inch thick, high quality bristle keeps it's shape
Can be used in water/oil when dedicated (learn more)
See Oil Softener for ultimate oil softener
Wonderful for stippling corners, relief's, & heavy textures
Great for reaching intricate surfaces like mullions, dentils & window casing, etc.
Use as a mini-flogger (WD-4)
Essential for blending clouds
Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	FERRULE LENGTH	HAIR LENGTH
50		.17" / 4.5mm	2" / 50mm	3.3" / 84mm
60		.3" / 8mm	2.4" / 60mm	3.4" / 86mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle
BRUSH HOLD	Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold
USAGE	Softening; breaking up the glaze
MEDIUM	Water or Oil
FERRULE	Copper
HANDLE	Wooden flat long

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Ultra Thin Double-blade Japanese Trowel (Steel)

TWJP-14_Small

$39.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!' but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

.3mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Steel)

.3mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Steel)

TWJP-03_Size-120

$40.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Original Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle)

Original Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-04D

Original Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-04D

GLZ-04D_Size-04

$25.00

Our pointed bristle glazer will surely assist in your glazing with its excellent line cutting capabilities. It as a 'sash', this sturdy brush can 'cut' a perfect line, work in tight corners, & accurately glaze your woodgraining or faux marble projects.

High quality bristle keeps it's shape
Pointed shape allows for precise application
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Can be used in oil/water when dedicated (learn more)
Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
Larger sizes best for glazing panels for woodgraining
Application/Usage: precisely applying glaze and basecoat; woodgraining; faux marble
Preferred Medium: Oil/Water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: Copper, wooden round long
Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle
Brush Hold: Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
Hair Length: 2.5-3" (60-72mm)
Dia./width: 1-1.25" (25-32mm)

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

PRO Domed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-34

PRO Domed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-34

GLZ-34_Size-02

$14.50

NEW! Blue POLYTOP BRUSH. The domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is a modern replica of the classic bristle/nylon blend version.

SOFT, Blue POLYTOP synthetic fiber
Slightly domed shape for full coverage
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
Use only in water mediums
Wash with Soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	HAIR LENGTH
2		.86" / 22mm	2.5" / 64mm
4		1" / 26mm	2.5" / 64mm
6		1.2" / 29mm	2.8" / 72mm
8		1.3" / 33mm	3.1" / 78mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Blue Polytop Synthetic
BRUSH HOLD	Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
USAGE	Applying glaze & base coat, stippling, adding texture
MEDIUM	Water
FERRULE	Tin
HANDLE	Wooden round long

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Stippling Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-23

GLZ-23

$42.00

Try our lightweight water stippler, a true replica of our classic Oil Stippler but specifically designed for today's water mediums. This bristle/nylon blend stippler is designed for fast and effortless stippling to save your arm. Take control of stippling with our replica of our classic. Conserve your energy, only settle for the best stippler for this widely used technique in decorative painting.

1 1/3 inches thick, 7 rows of nylon synthetic fiber w/ 50% bristle hair
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Can be used to strie with glaze or heavy paint
Stipples close to the corner
Perfect brush for colorwashing/large-scale blending & softening

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	FERRULE LENGTH	HAIR LENGTH
		" / 39mm	" / mm	" / 62mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle / Nylon blend
BRUSH HOLD	Handle Grip With Wrist Action, Baseball Hold
USAGE	Stippling and Strie
MEDIUM	Water or Oil
FERRULE	N/A
HANDLE	Wood

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Ultimate Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-01

GLZ-01_Size-04

$19.00

Our domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is our highest level of quality. This is a modern replica of the classic full bristle version (GLZ-3).

Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
Sealed handle for longevity
Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
Slightly domed shape for full coverage
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
Description:
Description: Finest quality glazing brush
Application/Usage: applying glaze and basecoat; stippling; adding texture
Preferred Medium: Water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: Tin, wooden round long
Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle/Nylon blend
Brush Hold: Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
Brush Care: Wash with soap
Found in Kits:
See Also:
Hair Length: 2-3" (60-72mm)
Dia./width: .5-1.25" (25-32mm)
Brush Length:

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Codtail Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-13

Codtail Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-13

GLZ-13

$42.00

Our codtail is the ultimate smoothing tool. It can be gentle as a smoother or used aggressively to efficiently blend/break up multi-tonal glazes. 'Crush' it on the surface to create a very broken-up effect. We also love it as a fine stippler on all hard to reach areas.

Select, long hair for a finer blending
1/3 inch thick, high quality bristle keeps it's shape
Can be used in water/oil when dedicated (learn more)
See Oil Softener for ultimate oil softener
Can be used as a flogger in oil
Excellent for softening crown molding and baseboards
Perfect for faux leather, color washes, & clouds
Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap

SIZE TRANSLATIONS

SIZE	BRUSH LENGTH	FERRULE WIDTH	FERRULE LENGTH	HAIR LENGTH
120		.2" / 5mm	4.7" / 120mm	4.2" / 106mm

BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS

HAIR TYPE	Natural Bristle
BRUSH HOLD	Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold
USAGE	Softening; breaking up the glaze
MEDIUM	Water or Oil
FERRULE	Copper
HANDLE	Wooden flat long

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-10

GLZ-10

$47.00

Use this for controlled, parallel veins when painting faux marble and semiprecious stone.

Strong, synthetic toray fiber
For painting onyx marble
Stippler

stippling and strie

Description:

Description: Bristle hair for OIL/WATER mediums

Application/Usage: stippling and strie

Preferred Medium: Oil/Water

Brush Ferrule/Handle: wood

Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle

Brush Hold: Handle Grip With Wrist Action, Baseball Hold

Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap

Found in Kits:

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon)

Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-01D

Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-01D

GLZ-01D_Size-02

$19.00

Our domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is our highest level of quality. This is a modern replica of the classic full bristle version.

Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
Sealed handle for longevity
Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
Slightly domed shape for full coverage
Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
Application/Usage: applying glaze and basecoat; stippling; adding texture
Preferred Medium: Water
Brush Ferrule/Handle: Tin, wooden round long
Brush Hold: Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
Hair Length: 2-3" (60-72mm)
Dia./width: .5-1.25" (25-32mm)

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Trowel

TWJP-19

$6.00

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Japanese Hand Burnishing Tool

TWJP-18

$8.00

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Trowel

TWJP-17_Small

$19.00

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Rubber Spatula (Red)

TWJP-15_Small

$12.00

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Traditional Japanese Burnishing Trowel (Carbon Steel)

TWJP-13_Size-150

$58.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Flat Burnishing Trowel (Steel)

TWJP-12_Size-150

$92.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

Curved Burnishing Trowel (Steel)

TWJP-11_Size-150

$36.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

1mm Square Tip Japanese Trowel (Clear Plastic)

TWJP-10

$39.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

1mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Clear Plastic)

TWJP-09_Size-180

$28.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

1mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Yellow Plastic)

TWJP-08_Size-180

$24.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.

.7mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Green Plastic)

TWJP-07_Size-150

$28.00

High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market, but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate textures. Our range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or rigid options. The thicker, more rigid trowels are best for applying the plaster. The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.

Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust

Which trowel is right for your project?

Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.

Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.

Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You"ll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.

Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).

Size translations:

120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")

Be a plaster samurai! Did you know? When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and plastering tools.

How-To Brush Care Guide

Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.

Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.

Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair

Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)

Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle

To minimize brush shedding, you should:

Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)

Repeat this process a few more times.

All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.

Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.

Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.

Proper cleaning procedure

for oil/water and large or small brushes:

	Oil Medium	Water Medium
Large Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down.	Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry.
Small Brushes	Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits.	Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic.