43 products
43 products
Mixol® Universal Color Tints
PMX-01_B01_20ml
Regular price $6.06 Sale price $5.76 Save $0.30/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Mixol offers the highest quality Universal Tints on the market. Produced in Germany for more than 35 years, Mixol is compatible with almost any paint and coating. The full assortment of 33 colors mixes easily with shellacs, lacquers, primers and fillers.
Mixol is known for its high concentration of pigment, sophisticated color palette, and ease of mixing. They are highly resistant to frost and heat damage. They have an indefinite shelf life, and because they are binder-free, they will not dry out or thicken.
Fifteen Mixol Oxide colors were created to meet the growing demand for adding color to fast-drying varnishes and paints. Oxide colorants can even be used with cement and mortar and are colorfast and weatherproof.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-45
GLZ-45_Size-00000
Regular price $12.30/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
NEW! Our pointed water glazer has excellent line-cutting capabilities. Also known as a sash brush, this is a modern replica of the classic bristle/nylon version (GLZ-2). Available in 7 sizes.
- SOFT, Blue Polytop synthetic fiber
- Pointed shape allows for precise application
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
- Larger sizes best for glazing panels for faux marble/wood
- Small sizes for murals, and glazing tiny areas like mullions, dentils & window casing
- Also used to sketch wood heartgrain, & primary veins
- Wash with Soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | HAIR LENGTH |
| 00000 | .45" / 11mm |
1.9" / 48mm |
|
| 000 | .6" / 15mm | 2.1" / 53mm | |
| 0 | .7" / 18mm | 2.3" / 58mm | |
| 2 | .83" / 21mm | 2.6" / 66mm | |
| 4 | .98" / 25mm | 2.9" / 73mm | |
| 6 | 1.2" / 29mm | 3" / 77mm | |
| 8 | 1.4" / 34mm | 3.2" / 81mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze and base coat |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Original Stubby Tooth Spalter (Nylon, Bristle) | GLZ-08D
GLZ-08D_Size-060
Regular price $16.05 Sale price $14.45 Save $1.60/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our tooth spalter has been cut to create 'teeth'. In decorative painting, this bristle/blend brush is essential for a deep strie, brushed texture, & straight graining techniques in water mediums. Our spalters are over 1/3 " thick. This is a must for your decorative painting kit. Available in 6 sizes.
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 50% natural bristle
- Machine cut teeth
- The best brush for patina and aging techniques (dry-brushing)
- Pulling wet basecoat when a heavily brushed texture is desired
- Criss-cross techniques
- Application/Usage: strie; straight graining in wood
- Preferred Medium: Oil/Water
- Brush Ferrule/Handle: copper, wooden flat short
- Brush Hair Type: Natural Bristle/Nylon blend
- Brush Hold: Drummer's Hold
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
- Hair Length: 1.5-1.7" (38-45mm), 2" (51mm)
- Dia./width: 1.6" (40mm), 2.2" (60mm), 3.1" (80mm), 4", 6" (150mm), 8" (200mm)
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
PRO Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-41
GLZ-41_Size-000
Regular price $13.35/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our pointed water glazer will surely assist in your glazing with its excellent line cutting capabilities. The PRO SERIES is our extra fine / highest level of quality series. Also known as a sash brush, this is a modern replica of the classic bristle version (GLZ-4).
- Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
- Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
- Sealed handle for longevity
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
- Pointed shape allows for precise application
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
- Larger sizes best for glazing panels for faux marble/wood
- Small sizes for murals, and glazing tiny areas like mullions, dentils & window casing
- Also used to sketch wood heartgrain, & primary veins
- Wash with soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | HAIR LENGTH |
| 000 | .4" / 11mm | 2.2" / 56mm | |
| 0 | .8 / 20mm | 2.4" / 62mm | |
| 2 | .9" / 22mm | 2.8" / 70mm | |
| 4 | 1" / 26mm | 3" / 75mm | |
| 6 | 1.2" / 31mm | 3.3" / 84mm | |
| 8 | 1.3" / 34mm | 3.5" / 89mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze and base coat |
|
MEDIUM |
Water or Oil |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-10D
GLZ-10D
Regular price $50.25 Sale price $45.23 Save $5.02/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Use this for controlled, parallel veins when painting faux marble and semiprecious stone.
- For painting onyx marble
- Stippler
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
|
SIZE |
BRUSH LENGTH |
FERRULE WIDTH |
FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
|
3.6" (92mm) |
" / mm |
2.4" (61mm) |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Handle Grip With Wrist Action, Baseball Hold |
|
USAGE |
Stippling and strie |
|
MEDIUM |
Oil or Water |
|
FERRULE |
Wood |
|
HANDLE |
Wood |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
4-in-1 Flat Spalter Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-09
GLZ-09
Regular price $39.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our long haired spalter is a combination of a spalter, softener, and a mini-flogger. This natural bristle brush becomes economical because of it's versatility. Our spalters are over 1/3" thick. From strie to corner stippling, smoothing to moire, this brush does it all. Keep it in your back pocket and it will get used often.
- Hand-selected bristle hair, longer than a Spalter
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Softens unwanted brush/roller marks
- 4 uses: softening, strie, stipple, & moire
- A versatile brush for the price
- Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 100 | .16" / 4mm | 4" / 100mm | 2.2" / 55mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Drummer's Hold, Conductor's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Corner stippling; strie |
|
MEDIUM |
Water or Oil |
|
FERRULE |
Copper |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden flat short |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
PRO Domed Glazing Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-34
GLZ-34_Size-02
Regular price $15.50/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
NEW! Blue POLYTOP BRUSH. The domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is a modern replica of the classic bristle/nylon blend version.
- SOFT, Blue POLYTOP synthetic fiber
- Slightly domed shape for full coverage
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
- Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
- Use only in water mediums
- Wash with Soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | HAIR LENGTH |
| 2 | .86" / 22mm | 2.5" / 64mm | |
| 4 | 1" / 26mm | 2.5" / 64mm | |
| 6 | 1.2" / 29mm | 2.8" / 72mm | |
| 8 | 1.3" / 33mm | 3.1" / 78mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Blue Polytop Synthetic |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze & base coat, stippling, adding texture |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-01D
GLZ-01D_Size-02
Regular price $20.30 Sale price $18.27 Save $2.03/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is our highest level of quality. This is a modern replica of the classic full bristle version.
- Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
- Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
- Sealed handle for longevity
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
- Slightly domed shape for full coverage
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
- Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
- Application/Usage: applying glaze and basecoat; stippling; adding texture
- Preferred Medium: Water
- Brush Ferrule/Handle: Tin, wooden round long
- Brush Hold: Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
- Hair Length: 2-3" (60-72mm)
- Dia./width: .5-1.25" (25-32mm)
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Ultra Thin Double-blade Japanese Trowel (Steel)
TWJP-14_Large
Regular price $55.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!' but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Stippling Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-23
GLZ-23
Regular price $44.95/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Try our lightweight water stippler, a true replica of our classic Oil Stippler but specifically designed for today's water mediums. This bristle/nylon blend stippler is designed for fast and effortless stippling to save your arm. Take control of stippling with our replica of our classic. Conserve your energy, only settle for the best stippler for this widely used technique in decorative painting.
- 1 1/3 inches thick, 7 rows of nylon synthetic fiber w/ 50% bristle hair
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Can be used to strie with glaze or heavy paint
- Stipples close to the corner
- Perfect brush for colorwashing/large-scale blending & softening
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| " / 39mm | " / mm | " / 62mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Handle Grip With Wrist Action, Baseball Hold |
|
USAGE |
Stippling and Strie |
|
MEDIUM |
Water or Oil |
|
FERRULE |
N/A |
|
HANDLE |
Wood |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Rubber Spatula (Red)
TWJP-15_Large
Regular price $17.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.3mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Steel)
TWJP-03_Size-120
Regular price $40.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.7mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Green Plastic)
TWJP-07_Size-180
Regular price $28.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You"ll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Original Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-04D
GLZ-04D_Size-04
Regular price $26.75 Sale price $24.08 Save $2.67/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our pointed bristle glazer will surely assist in your glazing with its excellent line cutting capabilities. It as a 'sash', this sturdy brush can 'cut' a perfect line, work in tight corners, & accurately glaze your woodgraining or faux marble projects.
- High quality bristle keeps it's shape
- Pointed shape allows for precise application
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Can be used in oil/water when dedicated (learn more)
- Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
- Larger sizes best for glazing panels for woodgraining
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE
|
Natural Bristle
|
|
BRUSH HOLD
|
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
|
|
USAGE
|
Precisely applying glaze and basecoat; woodgraining; faux marble
|
|
MEDIUM
|
Oil or Water
|
|
FERRULE
|
Copper
|
|
HANDLE
|
Wooden round long
|
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
|
SIZE |
BRUSH LENGTH |
FERRULE WIDTH |
FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 4 |
" / mm |
" / mm |
" / mm |
|
|
8 |
" / mm |
" / mm |
" / mm |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Original Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-03D
GLZ-03D_Size-04
Regular price $25.70 Sale price $23.13 Save $2.57/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
This original design is ingenious in it's rounded shape and thick hair. The hand tied red, cotton string is handsomely traditional in this model. Our natural bristle glazing brushes should be a standard item in your decorative painting kit.
- High quality bristle keeps it's shape
- Slightly domed shape for fast coverage
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Can be used in oil/water when dedicated (learn more)
- Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
- Works well painting basecoats
- Glaze panels with speed
- With size 8, glaze entire wall - applies better than a roller!
- Description: Bristle hair for OIL/WATER mediums
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
- Hair Length: 3-3.5" (76-90mm)
- Dia./width: 1-1.25" (25-32mm)
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 4 | " / mm | " / mm |
" / mm |
|
| 8 | " / mm | " / mm |
" / mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze and base coat; adding texture; rough stipple |
|
MEDIUM |
Oil, Water |
|
FERRULE |
Copper |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Codtail Blending Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-12
GLZ-12_Size-50
Regular price $27.80/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our long handle small codtail is the ultimate smoothing tool. It can be gentle as a smoother or used aggressively to efficiently blend/break up multi-tonal glazes. We also love it as a fine stippler on all hard to reach areas.
- Long hair for a finer blending
- 1/3 inch thick, high quality bristle keeps it's shape
- Can be used in water/oil when dedicated (learn more)
- See Oil Softener for ultimate oil softener
- Wonderful for stippling corners, relief's, & heavy textures
- Great for reaching intricate surfaces like mullions, dentils & window casing, etc.
- Use as a mini-flogger (WD-4)
- Essential for blending clouds
- Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 50 |
0.1" / 4.5mm |
2" / 50mm | 3.3" / 84mm | |
| 60 | 0.3" / 8mm | 2.4" / 60mm | 3.4" / 86mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
USAGE |
Softening; breaking up the glaze |
|
MEDIUM |
Water or Oil |
|
FERRULE |
Copper |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden flat long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Corner Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-11
GLZ-11
Regular price $41.75/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Use our small bristle stippler for all your hard to reach areas that our regular size won't reach. Also, the strong bristle hair is tough enough to apply thick texture with a stipple effect. This is a widely used brush for a variety of techniques like; small/corner stippling, smoothing, plaster application, broken texture look, or Provencal (jigouille) wall treatment.
- 3 rows of natural bristle hair
- High quality bristle keeps it's shape
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Can be used in water/oil when dedicated (learn more)
- Wonderful for stippling corners, relief's, & heavy textures
- Great for reaching intricate surfaces like mullions, dentils & window casing, etc.
- Excellent plaster applicator
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
|
BRUSH LENGTH |
FERRULE WIDTH |
FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
|
1.2"/31mm |
4.7"/120mm |
3.1"/80mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Handle Grip With Wrist Action, Baseball Hold |
|
USAGE |
Spattering; spattering; water marks; worm holes |
|
MEDIUM |
Oil, Water |
|
FERRULE |
N/A |
|
HANDLE |
Wood |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
PRO Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-31
GLZ-31_Size-02
Regular price $15.50/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. The Pro SERIES is a high level of quality. The EXTRA FINE Nylon/Bristle fiber is a nylon blend replica of the classic full bristle version (GLZ-3).
- Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
- Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
- Sealed handle for longevity
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
- Slightly domed shape for full coverage
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
- Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
- Wash with Soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | HAIR LENGTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
| 2 | .9" / 23mm | 2.3" / 59mm | 0.9"/25mm | |
| 4 | 1" / 27mm | 2.9" / 69mm |
1"/26mm |
|
| 6 | 1.2" / 32mm | 3.1" / 79mm |
1.2"/32mm |
|
| 8 | 1.3" / 34mm | 3.1" / 79mm |
1.3"/34mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze & base coat, stippling, adding texture |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Ultimate Domed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-01
GLZ-01_Size-04
Regular price $20.50/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our domed water glazer is the work horse of decorative painting. This is our highest level of quality. This is a modern replica of the classic full bristle version (GLZ-3).
- Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
- Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
- Sealed handle for longevity
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
- Slightly domed shape for full coverage
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for 'breaking up the glaze'
- Large size can glaze an entire wall with speed
- Brush Care: Wash with soap
- Hair Length: 2-3" (60-72mm)
- Dia./width: .5-1.25" (25-32mm)
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 4 | 1"/26mm | 1"/26mm |
2.8"/72mm |
|
| 8 | 1.2"/32mm | 1.2"/32mm |
3.2"/82mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Applying glaze and basecoat; stippling; adding texture |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Codtail Stippling Brush (Bristle) | GLZ-13
GLZ-13
Regular price $44.95/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our codtail is the ultimate smoothing tool. It can be gentle as a smoother or used aggressively to efficiently blend/break up multi-tonal glazes. 'Crush' it on the surface to create a very broken-up effect. We also love it as a fine stippler on all hard to reach areas.
- Select, long hair for a finer blending
- 1/3 inch thick, high quality bristle keeps it's shape
- Can be used in water/oil when dedicated (learn more)
- See Oil Softener for ultimate oil softener
- Can be used as a flogger in oil
- Excellent for softening crown molding and baseboards
- Perfect for faux leather, color washes, & clouds
- Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & wash w/ soap
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
| SIZE | BRUSH LENGTH | FERRULE WIDTH | FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
| 120 | 0.2" / 5mm | 4.7" / 120mm | 4.2" / 106mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
USAGE |
Softening; breaking up the glaze |
|
MEDIUM |
Water or Oil |
|
FERRULE |
Copper |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden flat long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.3mm Round Tip Japanese Trowel (Steel)
TWJP-05_Size-210
Regular price $51.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Oval Varnish Brush (Bluetop) | GLZ-25
GLZ-25_Size-040
Regular price $25.70/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Great for FURNITURE! This Italian-inspired oval brush has a thick hair density that allows for greater medium retention. Our new BLUE hair will help apply water varnishes and water basecoats softly and efficiently. We've introduced this brush a year ago and the feedback has been superb! Our BLUE brushes seem to be a brush breakthrough! Use with the BLUE Spalter for the best, glass-like varnish finish.
- For best results, keep the brush saturated with varnish
- 2/3 inch thick, nylon synthetic
- Oval shape great mix between flat and round brushes
- Description: Soft, blue nylon for WATER medium
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap
- Dia./width: 1.5, 2.5 inches
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- For water applications only
- Small sizes great for painting stiles/rails, small panels, mullions, etc.
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
|
SIZE |
BRUSH LENGTH
|
FERRULE WIDTH
|
FERRULE LENGTH
|
HAIR LENGTH
|
| 40 |
0.3"/ 9mm
|
1.5"/ 40mm
|
1.8" / 45mm
|
|
| 50 |
0.3"/ 9mm
|
1.9"/ 50mm
|
1.8" / 45mm
|
|
| 60 |
0.3" 9mm
|
2.3" / 60mm
|
1.8" / 45mm
|
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Polytop Synthetic |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Drummer's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
USAGE |
Varnishing |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Copper |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden flat medium |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Mixol® Metallic Effect Universal Color Tints
PMX-02_GE_30g
Regular price $16.47 Sale price $15.65 Save $0.82/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Mixol offers the highest quality Universal Tints on the market. Produced in Germany for more than 35 years, Mixol is compatible with almost any paint and coating. The full assortment of 33 colors mixes easily with shellacs, lacquers, primers and fillers.
Mixol is known for its high concentration of pigment, sophisticated color palette, and ease of mixing. They are highly resistant to frost and heat damage. They have an indefinite shelf life, and because they are binder-free, they will not dry out or thicken.
Fifteen Mixol Oxide colors were created to meet the growing demand for adding color to fast-drying varnishes and paints. Oxide colorants can even be used with cement and mortar and are colorfast and weatherproof.
Gold - 30g / 300g
Silver / Copper - 20g / 200g
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
1mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Yellow Plastic)
TWJP-08_Size-180
Regular price $24.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.2mm SS Square Japanese Trowel (Steel)
TWJP-02_Size-180
Regular price $60.00/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Ultimate Pointed Glazing Brush (Bristle, Nylon) | GLZ-02
GLZ-02_Size-04
Regular price $28.90/
Shipping calculated at checkout.
Our pointed water glazer will surely assist in your glazing with its excellent line cutting capabilities. The ULTIMATE SERIES is our highest level of quality. Also known as a sash brush, this is a modern replica of the classic bristle version (GLZ-4).
- Hand-shaped with select bristle fibers
- Premium stainless steel ferrule with hand-tied string
- Sealed handle for longevity
- Nylon synthetic fiber with 60% natural bristle
- Pointed shape allows for precise application
- Rounded for ultimate medium dispersion (learn more)
- Brush 'springs' into action (learn more)
- Perfect for glazing stiles/rails, baseboard, and dentil molding
- Larger sizes best for glazing panels for faux marble/wood
- Small sizes for murals, and glazing tiny areas like mullions, dentils & window casing
- Also used to sketch wood heartgrain, & primary veins
SIZE TRANSLATION
|
SIZE |
BRUSH LENGTH |
FERRULE WIDTH |
FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
|
2 |
0.8"/21mm |
0.8"/21mm |
2"/51mm |
|
|
4 |
0.9"/25mm |
0.9"/25mm |
2.9"/74mm |
|
|
8 |
1.2"/32mm |
1.2"/32mm |
3.4"/86mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Natural Bristle / Nylon blend |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
USAGE |
Precisely applying glaze and basecoat; woodgraining; faux marble |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
