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Pierre Finkelstein and fauxbrushes.com have collections for all techniques of decorative painting or faux finishing. We put together collections such as woodgraining, faux marble, trompe l’oeil, ornamentation, sign painting, glazing, gilding, stenciling, plaster, faux finishing and textured finishes.
We have natural and synthetic brushes made with Bristle, Nylon, Squirrel, Sable, Bluetop, Ox, Polytop, Badger, and black bristle. We have a wide array of hand-tied brushes, paints, glazes, books, and decorative painting accessories. Faux Brushes was started by Pierre Finkelstein, author of The Art of Faux who teaches decorative painting techniques at Pierre Finkelstein Institute of Decorative Painting, Inc.
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MIDAS Metall® Tin Powder Unit
Balconies & Balustrades | VL-10
ITEM #: VL-10
PRICE: $127.50 Regular price/
Only 6 items in stock!
This illustrated reference book is perfect for the beginner or advanced trompe l'oeil painter. It contains hundreds of designs and varieties of decorative and ornamental balcony and balustrade designs. Each page is full of expertly drawn examples of historic and classical wrought iron motifs. Just enlarge, trace, and you're ready to paint!
Fantastic reference for murals w/ garden views and balcony scenes
Direct visual information, including detailed diagrams, cross-sections and highlight and shadow placement for easy execution
270 pages
This illustrated reference book is perfect for the beginner or advanced trompe l'oeil painter. It contains hundreds of designs and varieties of decorative and ornamental balcony and balustrade designs. Each page is full of expertly drawn examples of historic and classical wrought iron motifs. Just enlarge, trace, and you're ready to paint!
- Fantastic reference for murals w/ garden views and balcony scenes
- Direct visual information, including detailed diagrams, cross-sections and highlight and shadow placement for easy execution
- 270 pages
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Japanese Hand Tool
ITEM #: TWJP-19
PRICE: $5.84 Regular price/
Only 18 items in stock!
Japanese Hand Tool
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Japanese Hand Tool
ITEM #: TWJP-17_Large
PRICE: $29.84 Regular price/
Only 5 items in stock!
Japanese Hand tool for all your application needs!
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Flat Burnishing Trowel (Steel)
ITEM #: TWJP-12_Size-150
PRICE: $114.99 Regular price/
Only 3 items in stock!
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust
Which trowel
is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm
(thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate,
soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent
applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick
and are more resilient to wear. Plastic
trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of
trowels. You'll be saying "these are so
cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage
when dropped. They get sharper with age,
but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with
the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Curved Burnishing Trowel (Steel)
ITEM #: TWJP-11_Size-150
PRICE: $51.14 Regular price/
Only 10 items in stock!
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust
Which trowel
is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm
(thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate,
soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent
applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick
and are more resilient to wear. Plastic
trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of
trowels. You'll be saying "these are so
cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage
when dropped. They get sharper with age,
but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with
the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword black smiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.5mm Pointed Tip Japanese Trowel (Steel)
ITEM #: TWJP-06_Size-210
PRICE: $67.24 Regular price/
Only 11 items in stock!
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust
Which trowel
is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm
(thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate,
soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent
applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick
and are more resilient to wear. Plastic
trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of
trowels. You'll be saying "these are so
cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage
when dropped. They get sharper with age,
but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with
the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
.3mm Pointed Tip WIDER Japanese Trowel (Steel)
ITEM #: TWJP-04_Size-210
PRICE: $67.24 Regular price/
Only 13 items in stock!
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
Gets tight into corners
Great for "knock-down" troweling
Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
Gets sharper with use
Won't rust
Which trowel
is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm
(thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate,
soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent
applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick
and are more resilient to wear. Plastic
trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of
trowels. You'll be saying "these are so
cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage
when dropped. They get sharper with age,
but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with
the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
120mm (4.7")
150mm (5.9")
180mm (7")
210mm (8.3")
240mm (9.5")
270mm (10.6")
300mm (11.8")
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
High-quality, traditional Japanese trowels are
essential in the decorative painter's tool-kit. There is a range of trowels on the market,
but the Japanese version provides a versatility and ease of use that is
unmatched. Generally, Japanese trowels are meant to move
softer and smoother plasters like Venetian, clay, or other low-aggregate
textures. Our
range of products come in primarily, stainless steel or plastic; flexible or
rigid options. The thicker, more rigid
trowels are best for applying the plaster.
The thinner, more flexible, stainless steel trowels are superb for
smoothing, knocking-down, burnishing, and polishing the finishing layers.
Be a plaster samurai! Did you know?
When the Edo period in Japan came to a close and the samurai fought their
final battle, the production of swords was forbidden. As a result, highly
skilled sword blacksmiths, concentrated on making carpentry and plastering
tools. To this day, Japan is known for its exquisite carpentry and
plastering tools.
- Very delicate - less likely to scratch the surface
-
Easy grip (especially easy with small hands)
- Gets tight into corners
-
Great for "knock-down" troweling
- Fantastic burnisher/polishing tool
- Gets sharper with use
- Won't rust
Which trowel is right for your project?
Thickness: Sizes range from .3mm (thin) to 1mm (thick). Thinner trowels allow for a delicate, soft touch. Thicker trowels are excellent applicators.
Material: Stainless steel trowels come thin or thick and are more resilient to wear. Plastic trowels are thicker, cheaper, and less likely to nick when dropped.
Size: We love the medium to small sizes of trowels. You'll be saying "these are so cute!" but they are seriously essential in small spaces and corners.
Care instructions: Stainless steel trowels are subject to damage when dropped. They get sharper with age, but they can also become misshapen when used with heavy aggregates. They will not rust, but care must be taken with the wood handle (not to be left sitting in water).
Size translations:
- 120mm (4.7")
- 150mm (5.9")
- 180mm (7")
- 210mm (8.3")
- 240mm (9.5")
- 270mm (10.6")
- 300mm (11.8")
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Flat Ornament Brush (Sable, Toray Nylon) | TL-07D
ITEM #: TL-07D_Size-06
PRICE: $6.54 Regular price Regularly: $10.90 Sale price Save $4.36/
Only 12 items in stock!
In order to make a more economical brush, we've combined some natural sable hair with synthetic fiber which holds up to today's water mediums. The flat-tip, sable blend brush is used primarily for half tone shadowing where a sharp, unfaded stroke is desired. Use effectively with a Striping Edge for faux molding & other linear projects. Muralists will surely love this series of sable/mix for production and accuracy. Available in 3 sizes.
Kolinsky sable /synthetic blend
Flat shape is best for half tone shadows
Perfect for landscape and figure murals
Larger sizes great for quick blending, fading, and wide half tone
Description: Economical mix of sable with synthetic
Brush Care: Wash with soap
Hair Length: .5" (13mm)
Dia./width: 2-8 mm
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
HAIR TYPE
Sable Mix
BRUSH HOLD
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold
USAGE
Trompe l'oeil; striping; half tone
MEDIUM
Water
FERRULE
Tin
HANDLE
Wooden round medium
In order to make a more economical brush, we've combined some natural sable hair with synthetic fiber which holds up to today's water mediums. The flat-tip, sable blend brush is used primarily for half tone shadowing where a sharp, unfaded stroke is desired. Use effectively with a Striping Edge for faux molding & other linear projects. Muralists will surely love this series of sable/mix for production and accuracy. Available in 3 sizes.
- Kolinsky sable /synthetic blend
- Flat shape is best for half tone shadows
- Perfect for landscape and figure murals
- Larger sizes great for quick blending, fading, and wide half tone
- Description: Economical mix of sable with synthetic
- Brush Care: Wash with soap
- Hair Length: .5" (13mm)
- Dia./width: 2-8 mm
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Sable Mix |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pencil Hold, Drummer's Hold |
|
USAGE |
Trompe l'oeil; striping; half tone |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round medium |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Acryl'art Flat Brush (Bordeaux Nylon) | TL-17D
ITEM #: TL-17D_Size-04
PRICE: $5.88 Regular price Regularly: $9.80 Sale price Save $3.92/
Only 14 items in stock!
For all you fresco mural painters, these brushes are for you! These synthetic brushes are made with a slightly stiffer, cognac fiber for all water mediums. Muralist will love these brushes for their resiliance, strength, and slightly heavier handle. Beginners to the world of striping will find this brush helpful for consistent half tone shadows. Our new Acryl'art synthetics are no substitute for sable, but the perfect starter brush. Use effectively with a STRIPING EDGE for faux molding & other linear projects. Available in 4 sizes.
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap
Hair Length: .6 in to 1.75 in
Dia./width: .4 in to 1.5 in
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
SIZE
BRUSH LENGTH
FERRULE WIDTH
FERRULE LENGTH
HAIR LENGTH
4
" / mm
" / mm
" / mm
6
" / mm
" / mm
" / mm
8
" / mm
" / mm
" / mm
14
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
HAIR TYPE
Bordeaux Nylon
BRUSH HOLD
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold
USAGE
Trompe l'oeil, striping
MEDIUM
Water
FERRULE
Tin
HANDLE
Wooden round long
For all you fresco mural painters, these brushes are for you! These synthetic brushes are made with a slightly stiffer, cognac fiber for all water mediums. Muralist will love these brushes for their resiliance, strength, and slightly heavier handle. Beginners to the world of striping will find this brush helpful for consistent half tone shadows. Our new Acryl'art synthetics are no substitute for sable, but the perfect starter brush. Use effectively with a STRIPING EDGE for faux molding & other linear projects. Available in 4 sizes.
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
|
SIZE |
BRUSH LENGTH |
FERRULE WIDTH |
FERRULE LENGTH |
HAIR LENGTH |
|
4 |
" / mm |
" / mm |
" / mm |
|
|
6 |
" / mm |
" / mm |
" / mm |
|
|
8 |
" / mm |
" / mm |
" / mm |
|
|
14 |
|
|
|
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Bordeaux Nylon |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
USAGE |
Trompe l'oeil, striping |
|
MEDIUM |
Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
Thick Filbert Blender Brush (Sable) | TL-13
ITEM #: TL-13
PRICE: $24.20 Regular price/
Only 75 items in stock!
Sable hair for soft tonal gradations. This luxurious sable brush will deliver soft tonal gradations. Our extra thick, short filbert sable fading brush is the best for the most delicate fading needs. It is recommended to use dry and softly blend fresh hue's together. Its made for the true trompe l'oeil craftsman. Perfect for delicate fading for any portrait muraling or ornamentation project.
Dense, high-quality Kolinsky sable hair
Sable hair ages well and is self-sharpening
Long handle for used with a Striping Edge and a mahlstick
Short filbert shape is best for fading
Can be used in oil or water when dedicated (learn more)
Excellent for blending flesh tones on portraits
Most effective fading is with a dry brush
Description: Sable hair for soft tonal gradations
Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & lard
Hair Length: .5" (12mm)
Dia./width: .1" (2.5mm)
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
BRUSH LENGTH
FERRULE WIDTH
FERRULE LENGTH
HAIR LENGTH
11.1" / 28.3cm
0.2" / 6mm
0.4" / 9mm
0.4" / 11mm
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
HAIR TYPE
Sable
BRUSH HOLD
Pen hold
USAGE
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold
MEDIUM
Oil or Water
FERRULE
Tin
HANDLE
Wooden round long
Sable hair for soft tonal gradations. This luxurious sable brush will deliver soft tonal gradations. Our extra thick, short filbert sable fading brush is the best for the most delicate fading needs. It is recommended to use dry and softly blend fresh hue's together. Its made for the true trompe l'oeil craftsman. Perfect for delicate fading for any portrait muraling or ornamentation project.
- Dense, high-quality Kolinsky sable hair
- Sable hair ages well and is self-sharpening
- Long handle for used with a Striping Edge and a mahlstick
- Short filbert shape is best for fading
- Can be used in oil or water when dedicated (learn more)
- Excellent for blending flesh tones on portraits
- Most effective fading is with a dry brush
- Description: Sable hair for soft tonal gradations
- Brush Care: Water: Wash with soap, Oil: Thinned & lard
- Hair Length: .5" (12mm)
- Dia./width: .1" (2.5mm)
SIZE TRANSLATIONS
|
BRUSH LENGTH
|
FERRULE WIDTH
|
FERRULE LENGTH
|
HAIR LENGTH
|
|
11.1" / 28.3cm |
0.2" / 6mm |
0.4" / 9mm
|
0.4" / 11mm |
BRUSH SPECIFICATIONS
|
HAIR TYPE |
Sable |
|
BRUSH HOLD |
Pen hold |
|
USAGE |
Conductor's Hold, Pencil Hold |
|
MEDIUM |
Oil or Water |
|
FERRULE |
Tin |
|
HANDLE |
Wooden round long |
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Metallic Textures
ITEM #: PTX-211_Metallic-Gold-Texture_Gal
PRICE: $109.79 Regular price/
Only 2 items in stock!
CALL FOR SPECIAL ORDER 1-888-FAUX-ART
Lifestyle Finishes Metallic Textures is a translucent texture with a fine grain of texture. They have a satiny, sophisticated pearlescent finish that bridges contemporary and old world designs with rich texture and metallic shimmer. Tint the Pearl to achieve lighter tones, tint the Gold for rich tones, and tint the Slate for deep, dramatic tones that work with just about any decor. WARNING: The Slate Texture is almost twice as heavy than the Pearl and Gold because of the nature of the Micaceous Iron Oxide.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
CALL FOR SPECIAL ORDER 1-888-FAUX-ART
Lifestyle Finishes Metallic Textures is a translucent texture with a fine grain of texture. They have a satiny, sophisticated pearlescent finish that bridges contemporary and old world designs with rich texture and metallic shimmer. Tint the Pearl to achieve lighter tones, tint the Gold for rich tones, and tint the Slate for deep, dramatic tones that work with just about any decor. WARNING: The Slate Texture is almost twice as heavy than the Pearl and Gold because of the nature of the Micaceous Iron Oxide.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO XL Glass Bead Texture
ITEM #: PTX-19_Gal
PRICE: $104.09 Regular price/
Only 2 items in stock!
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Glass Bead Texture is a clear, uniform acrylic texture containing real glass beads. Use to add accents of jewel-like reflected light, for contemporary accents, highlights and embellishments. Reflective light properties. Great for use with stencils. Compatible with most universal colorants. Use in stencils, furniture, or entire walls for a distinctive, embellished look.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Glass Bead Texture is a clear, uniform acrylic texture containing real glass beads. Use to add accents of jewel-like reflected light, for contemporary accents, highlights and embellishments. Reflective light properties. Great for use with stencils. Compatible with most universal colorants. Use in stencils, furniture, or entire walls for a distinctive, embellished look.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Glass Bead Texture
ITEM #: PTX-18_Gal
PRICE: $104.09 Regular price/
Only 3 items in stock!
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Glass Bead Texture is a clear, uniform acrylic texture containing real glass beads. Use to add accents of jewel-like reflected light, for contemporary accents, highlights and embellishments. Reflective light properties. Great for use with stencils. Compatible with most universal colorants.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Glass Bead Texture is a clear, uniform acrylic texture containing real glass beads. Use to add accents of jewel-like reflected light, for contemporary accents, highlights and embellishments. Reflective light properties. Great for use with stencils. Compatible with most universal colorants.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Venetian Plaster
ITEM #: PTX-17_Gal
PRICE: $71.79 Regular price/
Only 2 items in stock!
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Venetian Plaster Texture is a timeless, spray, roller or trowel applied coating for rich, multi-dimensional effects and dramatic depth of color. Burnish for a high-polish, marble-like appearance. Rich, opaque color with multi-dimentional effects. Tints and mixes easily. Use Soapstone Texture as a deep tinting base if darker colors are desired. Tint with DISPERSIONS for a concentrated additive or Slow-dry FLUIDS for a longer open time. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Venetian Plaster Texture is a timeless, spray, roller or trowel applied coating for rich, multi-dimensional effects and dramatic depth of color. Burnish for a high-polish, marble-like appearance. Rich, opaque color with multi-dimentional effects. Tints and mixes easily. Use Soapstone Texture as a deep tinting base if darker colors are desired. Tint with DISPERSIONS for a concentrated additive or Slow-dry FLUIDS for a longer open time. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Sandstone Texture
ITEM #: PTX-15_Gal
PRICE: $90.79 Regular price/
Only 3 items in stock!
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Cut Sandstone is a semi-opaque texture that requires minimal surface preparation. It is made up of a slightly coarse, uniform material, with the look of cemented grains of sediment, useful for effects from rustic to industrial. It produces a coarse, but relatively, non-absorbent surface that may be easily overglazed. Highly versatile material. Easily tints up to 10% with most universal colorants. Easily over-glazed. Tint with DISPERSIONS for a concentrated additive or Slow-dry FLUIDS for a longer open time. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
Golden Paintworks Lifestyle Finishes Cut Sandstone is a semi-opaque texture that requires minimal surface preparation. It is made up of a slightly coarse, uniform material, with the look of cemented grains of sediment, useful for effects from rustic to industrial. It produces a coarse, but relatively, non-absorbent surface that may be easily overglazed. Highly versatile material. Easily tints up to 10% with most universal colorants. Easily over-glazed. Tint with DISPERSIONS for a concentrated additive or Slow-dry FLUIDS for a longer open time. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Soapstone Texture
ITEM #: PTX-14_Gal
PRICE: $75.09 Regular price/
Only 3 items in stock!
Golden Paintwork Lifestyle Finishes Soapstone Texture has the soft look of natural soapstone. Create thin layers of tinted plaster for old world or contemporary looks. This tintable, off-white translucent (frosted window opacity) material is also useful for achieving dark Venetian plaster colors. Burnish for a high-polish finish. Or avoid a high-polish and achieve a soft look of soapstone with limited burnishing. Transforms into a rich, opaque color. Tints and mixes easily. Easy to apply. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
Golden Paintwork Lifestyle Finishes Soapstone Texture has the soft look of natural soapstone. Create thin layers of tinted plaster for old world or contemporary looks. This tintable, off-white translucent (frosted window opacity) material is also useful for achieving dark Venetian plaster colors. Burnish for a high-polish finish. Or avoid a high-polish and achieve a soft look of soapstone with limited burnishing. Transforms into a rich, opaque color. Tints and mixes easily. Easy to apply. Dries hard after curing.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
GOLDEN PRO Metallic Paint
ITEM #: PGZ-151-Metallic-Medium-Bronze_Gal
PRICE: $94.99 Regular price/
Only 2 items in stock!
CALL FOR SPECIAL ORDER 1-888-FAUX-ART
Lifestyle Finishes Metallic Colors are a waterbourne, interior acrylic that is highly pigmented with iridescent mica to produce strong metallic effects. Tint to achieve an array of colors, from light, fresh pearlescent to strikingly rich jewel tones. Achieve brilliant, opaque colors. Thins easily for more transparent colors. Tint-able for a wide range of colors. Complete coverage typically requires 2 coats.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
Click for SDS sheet
Click for Technical Data sheet
CALL FOR SPECIAL ORDER 1-888-FAUX-ART
Lifestyle Finishes Metallic Colors are a waterbourne, interior acrylic that is highly pigmented with iridescent mica to produce strong metallic effects. Tint to achieve an array of colors, from light, fresh pearlescent to strikingly rich jewel tones. Achieve brilliant, opaque colors. Thins easily for more transparent colors. Tint-able for a wide range of colors. Complete coverage typically requires 2 coats.
*Please note that limited supplies are kept in store and extra shipping time may be needed.
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
MIDAS Metall® Tin Powder Unit
ITEM #: MM-16_large_3xnonspray
Only 0 items in stock!
MIDAS Metall® available in 800 Grams and 2.4kg. Genuine tin metal powder of the highest quality.
Purchase as a Powder / Binder Unit and receive a discount of 5%.
Mixing Ratio
Spray Application: 3:1 Powder:Binder (2.0 Binder)
Non-Spray Application: 4:1 Powder:Binder (2.1 Binder)
Storage: to be stored in a temperature stable environment without large temperature swings; no frost, not under 0 degree Celsius; store at room temperature the day before application
*Please call 1-888-FAUX-ART for more information on this product
MIDAS Metall® available in 800 Grams and 2.4kg. Genuine tin metal powder of the highest quality.
Purchase as a Powder / Binder Unit and receive a discount of 5%.
Mixing Ratio
- Spray Application: 3:1 Powder:Binder (2.0 Binder)
- Non-Spray Application: 4:1 Powder:Binder (2.1 Binder)
Storage: to be stored in a temperature stable environment without large temperature swings; no frost, not under 0 degree Celsius; store at room temperature the day before application
*Please call 1-888-FAUX-ART for more information on this product
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |
MIDAS Metall® Steel B50 Powder Unit
ITEM #: MM-15_large_3xnonspray
Only 0 items in stock!
MIDAS Metall® available in 800 Grams and 2.4kg. Genuine, steel metal powder of the highest quality, showing varying warm color shades.
Purchase as a Powder / Binder Unit and receive a discount of 5%.
Mixing Ratio
Spray Application: 3:1 Powder:Binder (2.0 Binder)
Non-Spray Application: 4:1 Powder:Binder (2.1 Binder)
Storage: to be stored in a temperature stable environment without large temperature swings; no frost, not under 0 degree Celsius; store at room temperature the day before application
*Please call 1-888-FAUX-ART for more information on this product
MIDAS Metall® available in 800 Grams and 2.4kg. Genuine, steel metal powder of the highest quality, showing varying warm color shades.
Purchase as a Powder / Binder Unit and receive a discount of 5%.
Mixing Ratio
- Spray Application: 3:1 Powder:Binder (2.0 Binder)
- Non-Spray Application: 4:1 Powder:Binder (2.1 Binder)
Storage: to be stored in a temperature stable environment without large temperature swings; no frost, not under 0 degree Celsius; store at room temperature the day before application
*Please call 1-888-FAUX-ART for more information on this product
How-To Brush Care Guide
Prepare your brushes for their first use - read below.
Most of our large and fine hair brushes are hand-set and made with different hairs that are tapped in a small copper cylinder before being glued into the ferrule. This is why some of the hairs are not properly affixed to the ferrule, so the brush will shed some hair the first few times you will use it.
Thick hair: examples are; badger, hog (china bristle), horse hair
Fine hair: examples are sable; squirrel, goat, skunk (fine, thin short hair)
Synthetic Fiber: examples are; taklon, samina, bordeaux, synthetic bristle
To minimize brush shedding, you should:
- Wash the brush thoroughly with a mild dish soap in warm water and massage the hair to comb out the loose bristles. Rinse until there is no soap residue left in the brush.
- Ring the brush out by rolling it between your hands as if you were trying to make a fire with a stick to fluff out the brush.
- Let dry by hanging the brushes or lay it down at the edge of a table (a hog bristle will have a strong odor due to the bone glue used to attach the bristles. This will go away after a few washings.)
Repeat this process a few more times.
All acrylic glazes contain some sort of ammonia which attacks the structure of the natural hair. Therefore, brush maintenance and thorough repetitive cleaning as described in step 1, 2, & 3 is imperative to protect and extend the life of your brush.
Applying a few drops of ‘leave in’ conditioner is also a good idea if you’re not going to be using your brush for some time.
Dried Paint: If some acrylic glaze becomes hardened on the brush, start by removing the heaviest part with denatured alcohol then rinse with water and coat the hairs with Murphy’s Oil Soap and leave for several hours. Apply the steps again from 1, 2, & 3 so the paint will brush out easily and leave your brush as good as new. Be careful as soap left too long in the natural hair will deteriorate the flexibility of the hair.
Proper cleaning procedure
for oil/water and large or small brushes:
| Oil Medium | Water Medium | |
|---|---|---|
| Large Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Wash brush with warm water and a lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry upside down. | Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Clean with a tiny bit of lathering soap and rinse until completely clean. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry. |
| Small Brushes | Prep brushes by thinning in two or more baths of spirits or until a rag runs free of paint. Apply a generous portion of Lard to the tip of the brush and store. To reuse brush, completely thin with spirits. | Clean each small brush very carefully and gently with a tiny bit of lathering soap. Shake out excess water, quickly form brush shape, and then allow to dry . To reshape a brush, dip it in Gum Arabic. |